Grand Canyon-more than you thought.

Got up at 5:30 in the morning,heading to my dreaming place- the Grand Canyon !! Even have been so many spectacular places, Grand Canyon is still my biggest dreaming place , maybe because of its well known,like you cant miss the Great Wall in Beijing, the Terra-cotta Warriors in Xi’an, Grand Canyon is a must stop place in America for me. The most famous trial is Bright Angel trail, there are 4 rest stops along the way, the total distance is 18.5 miles all the way to Colorado to River, its only for overnight hiking. Since its downhills all the way there, so you have to save energy for the all the way uphill back, the elevation drops 3000 feet. It’s strenuous for most people to get to the third rest house- Indian Garden, it takes 6-9hours. There are more than 150 people died in Grand Canyon, not just because of falling down to the canyon accidentally, but also because of lacking of energy hiking back. 

   Based on above factors, me and my friend Scott decided to head to Indian Garden and then head back, even its not easy, but we both think we could handle it. We started at 9 on the dot, there was already someone heading back when we started , they started at 6 so they could avoid the heat.

   The mule in charge of transporting goods and water, they are not like horse, horse could be easily fall down on this narrow and rocky trail, mules walk pretty steady.

    We also got inspired by other climbers, some of them are over 70 years old but they carry everything on their back, they usually hike for a week from day to night, sometimes even 40 miles a day!

   A lot of squirrels were jumping up and down, you could find the fattest one is the most friendly one, they usually stand up acting cute when they see visitors pass by, so they could get food.

Thanks  Many lizards on the way as well, I kinda of afraid of all reptiles, but this lizard just stayed still there,not moving at all until I took the picture for him, lol, he must have been waiting for that.

 It was 11:30 when we got to Indiana Garden,it was earlier than we expected, so we decided to keep going after a brief lunch, we didn’t know how far we could go but the instinct of adventurist didn’t not allow us stopping .

The deeper we went, the hotter we felt,the blood orange we brought tasted like heaven! The most beautiful amazing scenery showed up right after we took the detour at Bright Angle Trail, which was the third rest house, but most people stopped there. We couldn’t help keeping going even we knew we have to save energies for the 9 miles upward slopes, we always like we are gonna head back until we see what’s next behind the next turning point, but there are a lot of turning points, we couldn’t see all the way through , so we just kept turning and turning, until we realized we hiked 4 more miles since we left the Indian Garden,we decided to turn back from there.Actually the hardest part for adventurist is not the tough road but the fact you have to turn around. Just at that time,a hiker passed by told us that we were only 1 mile away from Colorado river !! That was unbelievable!we never thought we could go that far ! We were so close to the end! 

    We started running without hesitating, that was the most exciting moment of that day, everything was beyond our expectations, we thought we could only get to the Indian Garden but we made it all the way to Colorado River, we thought the view we have seen was just the Grand Canyon looks like, but the scenery after detour shocked us greatly! 

We stopped when we were only 100 feet from Colorado River, it was just like a giant surprise was going to be revealed, a newborn baby was going to be born, a tasty cake was in front of you after days of hunger,you dared not to move, dared not to eat it up, you just gently looked at it, slowly tasted it,let it fully house your taste bud !

 We stood there for a minute then hands in hands ran to the river, it felt like we crossed the finish line from a Marathon.It was not how long it was, but how unbelievable we made the unexpected things happen!

 We returned at 13:00,it took us 3 hours plus 1 hour rest to get there, it may take twice time to go back for the 9 miles uphills. But we knew we could make it!!

  We walked even faster when we were heading back, the headwinds with sand became nasty . The hardest time was the time he told me we were only 0.3 miles away,it doesn’t seem that long, but it took much longer than you expected, especially after nearly 9 miles of uphills hiking

 When we finally got there, it was 5. We hiked 18.5 miles in total, We took 3 hours getting down there, but only 4 hours back!

  The whole process we completed without planning,the strenuous 9 miles uphills we did ahead of time,the Victory we won beyond expectations, is the real Grand Canyon i want!!Not even one pic could tell its beauty, not even one article could describe how amazing it is, only your experience could make it real, only your non giving up spirit could give its best interpretation!

When I arrived at the Indian Garden I felt like that was not the Grand Canyon I was looking forward, but the scenery immediately shocked me after I kept going, I’m thinking maybe the Grand Canyon just a spot I finished if I stopped there , but its far more than that. Think about how many times we stopped somewhere we thought we should be, yet the best part is just at the next turning point waiting for you!

Fire mashmalow for the night 

 

  

早上5:30起床,向军事化一般行动洗漱完毕便前往大!峡!谷!(Grand Canyon)这个心心向往必到的地方,也许是因为它的知名,就像是去了北京必到长城去了西安必看兵马俑一样,不得不承认尽管一路经历了那么多震撼的风景,攀爬过那么多高山,但是大峡谷仍然是心中的一个梦,似乎不到美国行便不完美。

大峡谷最著名的是Bright Angel Trial,沿途有4个停留点,也根据停留点的长度分难度等级,到达第一个停留点的来回是4.8公里,第二个是9.6公里,第三个是14.4公里,到达最后一个点也就是科罗拉多河流的距离是29.6公里。到达第三个停留点的难度已经是非常大了,如果要一直到科罗拉多河流需要花一天一夜的时间,而且没有水源补给,如果决定前往的游客必须咨询游客中心,做好一天一夜的万全准备才能前往。因为大峡谷不是一路攀爬,而是海拔一路下降1000多米,也就是去程都是一路下坡,但是回程却是完全的上坡,所以即使你能够一路向下到达终点但是却不一定有体力一路攀爬安全返回,这也是每年至少有150个游客葬身在大峡谷,不仅是源于道路狭窄照相时失足跌落,也是因为到达终点后没有体力返回而干渴在中途,因为越往下温度越高,一直到底便是沙漠气候。

  基于这些种种因素的考虑我们决定到达第三个停留点Indian Garden 便往回,尽管难度系数也比较大但是我们都觉得彼此的体力是没有问题的,正式出发时间早上9点整。

  当我们出发的时候已经遇到有人在返回了,他们是6点就出发趁太阳出来前到达第二个停留点便返回,其实出发的时候还是有点冷因为海拔高,但是到正午时便能够感受到沙漠的灼热了,我们设定好不管走多远都要在12点前往回走,这样能够为回去的上坡节省体力在天黑前安全返回。

  峡谷有专门的骡子运输队,山下的水源物资全亏他们,这条狭长的峡谷不仅狭窄而且路上都是坎坷不平的石头,骡子不像马,如果是马走这条路可能一不小心就会翻下山谷,但是骡子却是每一步都非常的稳健。

  一路遇到很多的登山者,甚至很多70多岁的登山队,他们却又都是满满的负荷,背上帐篷睡袋食物水源登山杖每天都在探险的路上,甚至一天进行40多公里的登山路从日出走到日落。

   沿途很多的小松鼠🐿️,大多都已经习惯了游客,那些长得特别胖的往往是最会卖萌的,他们看到游客去竖起身子两只爪子弯起来用他们可爱的样子获得食物。这只小松鼠正在运输一个大垃圾袋,遮到眼睛都看不见了还憨厚的一直往前走。

    除了松鼠还有很多的蜥蜴,其实我不敢近看他们,天生对爬行动物有种恐惧感,但是它停留在路边好半天一动也不动,我说你在那干嘛呢,给它拍了个模特照它才放心的离开。

  我们到达第三个停留点Indian Garden 时大概是11:30,这一路几乎没有怎么停留因为想着回去爬山时再利用拍照的时间休息,简单的吃过面包加Hummus 后我们决定继续向前。

    越往下走越是炎热,出发前带来的血橙此时简直是至上的美味!

 其实真正绝美的风景是在第三个停留点之后,可是往往很多人在第三个停留点便止步了,这些惊喜不断的美景让我们没有办法停住脚步,但是理智又告诉我们必须为回去长长的上坡路节省体力,因为峡谷有很多转弯点,你总是会很期待下一个转弯点后的风景是什么,我们便说等到下一个转弯点后就返回,就这样一直转了很多个弯后,我们停下来看导航显示的历程,准备就此返回,其实对冒险者来说最困难的不是路途的艰辛,而是没有到达终点却不得不返回的遗憾,我们发现此时已经距我们所约定的到达Indian Garden 就止步的第三个停留点已经多走了6公里,而离终点科罗拉多河流只有2公里!!那一刻我们没有任何犹豫而是不约而同的起身一起跑向终点,那种距离终点的激动,完全超越自己预期没有想过会达成的惊喜,是那一天最美好的时刻,在最后距离科罗拉多河流只有50米即将到达的那一刻,我们同时的止步了,就像在Sedona 无数次我们快要登上山顶的最后一刻,我们只是愣在那里,巨大的震撼的美景像是一幅画即将揭晓,像是一个新生儿即将出生,像是饥饿数天后发现的唯一个蛋糕摆在你面前,你不敢一次性吃光,而是一点点的,小心翼翼的让每一个味蕾都得到完全的满足。我们就那样愣在那里,对对方说,我们做到了!We are awesome!最后一起牵着手跑向终点,跑向这条我们从没有想过可以半天内就到达的河流,跑向这个给我们带来巨大惊喜和激励的胜利!

  返程时间是下午1点,去程加上休息用了4个小时的时间,而返回是15公里一路向上的上坡路,可能会用上双倍的时间,尽管带了夜行灯,但是我们仍然有一个信念是在天黑前到达,既然我们用4个小时做到了常人1天才能到达的终点,回去的路也依然可以完成。

   下午沙漠的风开始猛烈的刮起来,带着沙尘每走一步似乎鼻孔嘴巴都是沙砾,而鞋子更是早已变成了粉色(因为红色的尘土),我笑说风大概是个女孩子,嫉妒我的倾世容颜和绝世才华,所以我走哪她都得要打击我,他说你继续说,还嫉妒你的什么,我们还有15公里你可以一路说到终点。哈哈我说是有那么多不过得省点口水。

  回去的路上我们的步伐似乎更快了,他说我骨子里就是个冒险家,他跟那么多人有过不同的探险却很少有人能够跟上他的步伐,所以到最后便是孑然一身,而我也觉得第一次找到了和自己有同样能量的人,能跑着就绝不躺着,能跳着就绝不走着,每天有花不完的力气,使不完的精力,一天少几个小时运动就浑身难受,不折腾自己让自己精疲力尽体味苦辣酸甜都觉得不叫人生,要过的”艰辛”才觉得幸福,在常人眼里就是有福不享吃苦找罪受的疯子,找到同类的这一刻才会明白只有彼此理解我们所追求的只有我们才能懂的幸福。

   最后当他告诉我只有最后1公里的时候其实对于我来说最艰难的1公里,就像当我骑行100多公里逆风爬山路时可能并不觉得太艰难,因为道路还长只能自己慢慢摇,可是当我知道只有3公里就要到达时反而是最难的时候,因为3公里听起来很短似乎很快就能到达所以你心里会有那个期待,可事实上逆风加上坡当你只能以5公里的时速前进时你会觉得那最后的3公里是一辈子都难以到达的距离。我没有想到我们就这样一路向上走了10几公里的爬坡路,最后1公里你看着山顶离你那么近一圈一圈似乎很快就能到达可实际上却真的走了很久,双腿已经开始发酸,迎面而来的风沙和海拔的上升让出了一身汗的身体又开始发冷,坡度的峭度也更加的增大,那种即将要到达的激动却被淹没在一圈一圈看不到尽头的路中。

当最后一刻到达的时候,时间是下午5点,我们走了29.6公里,休息总共时长1小时,走路用时7小时,去程用了3小时➕1小时休息,而回程15公里的上坡路我们却仅用了4个小时。

  这个我们都没有计划甚至没有想到过可以完成的全程,这个我们觉得可能会走到天黑的上坡路,这个完全超过预期超出时间的胜利,才是我想要的大!峡!谷! 没有一张照片可以拍出它的美丽,没有一篇游记可以道出它的特别,因为你的经历才让它变的震撼,你的不放弃才是对它真正的诠释!

  当我到达第三个停留点时我在想这并不是我所期待大峡谷,因为当你一圈圈走下来你所看到的都是一样的风景只是不同的高度而已,我在想如果我们真的就在那里停止那么大峡谷也对于我而言只不过是完成了一个对名胜的心愿,而当我们开始转角不断向前层层撼丽的真正峡谷风貌开始展现,我们一路追逐完全超出期待到达科罗拉多河流的那一刻,大峡谷所给予的不仅是揭开了它真正的绝世美景,更是给予了我们最刻骨铭心的回忆。想想人生又有多少次是这样,你付出了一半你以为那就是努力的味道,奋斗也不过如此;你追求了一半你以为那就是爱情的味道,恋爱也不过如此;你逛了几个城市你就以为那是旅行的味道,世界也不过如此。而真正成功的喜悦,真正绝美的风景,真正值得拥有的人,却被你转身在离你一步之遥的地方。
晚上我们决定烤棉花糖!第一次学会了用石头生火,用新鲜的树枝做串架,这样即使在火上烤也不会被烧掉,你可以有两种烤法,一种是把棉花糖慢慢的接近火苗,用小火将它烤出金黄色,不仅好看而且外焦内嫩,第二种是把它伸进大火里,让它着火然后迅速吹灭并吃掉,棉花糖会完全烧焦但是依然很美味,就像炸过的冰淇淋一样,外面脆脆的但是里面入口即化,此法虽然粗糙但是快,你猜我会选哪一种? 哈哈,必须是第二种,像我这种大胃王别人烤1个的功夫我可能10个就下肚了。因为吃太多会腻,所以我这个湖南妹子便又加入了新发明,把棉花糖从中间撕开一个小口,然后注入辣椒粉,这样的棉花糖甜辣可口又解腻。

   晚上的温度其实已经接近零下,但是因为篝火并不觉得寒冷,在错过了第一次流星之后,我决定把睡垫挪到篝火边,就这样一直仰望着星空等待流星的出现,那一刻的夜空从未有过的明亮,这颗流浪的心也得到了无比的安宁。
(本文中的他叫Scott,是在Flagstaff 遇到的一个冒险家,我们是先去了Sedona 再一起去大峡谷再分别,此时已是午夜,明天再上传Sedona 游记)

  

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